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This excerpt is from Michael Pollan's, The Botany of Desire: A Plant's-Eye View Of The World
Sweetness is a desire that starts on the tongue with a sense of taste, but it doesn't end there. Or at least it didn't end there, back
when the
experience of
sweetness was so special that the word served as a metaphor for a certain kind of perfection. When writers like Jonathan Swift and Matthew
Arnold
used the expression
"sweetness and light" to name their highest ideal (Swift called them "the two noblest of things"; Arnold, the ultimate aim of
civilization), they
were drawing on a
sense of the word sweetness going back to classical times, a sense that has largely been lost to us. The best land was said to be sweet;
so were
the most pleasing
sounds, the most persuasive talk, the loveliest views, the most refined people, and the choicest part of any whole, as when Shakespeare
calls
spring the "sweet o' the
year." Lent by the tongue to all the other sense organs, "sweet," in the somewhat archaic definition of the Oxford English Dictionary, is
that
which "affords
enjoyment or gratifies desire." Like a shimmering equal sign, the word sweetness denoted a reality commensurate with human desire; it
stood for
fulfillment.
Since then sweetness has lost much of its power and become slightly…well, saccharine. Who now would think of sweetness as a "noble"
quality? At
some point during the
nineteenth century, a hint of insincerity began to trail the word through literature, and in our time it's usually shadowed by either
irony or
sentimentality. Overuse
probably helped to cheapen the word's power on the tongue, but I think the advent of cheap sugar in Europe, and perhaps especially cane
sugar
processed by slaves, is
what did the most to discount sweetness, both as an experience and as a metaphor. (The final insult came with the invention of synthetic
sweeteners.) Both the
experience and the metaphor seem to me worth recovering, if for no other reason than to appreciate the apple's former power.
Start with taste. Imagine a moment when the sensation of honey or sugar on the tongue was an astonishment, a kind of intoxication. The
closest
I've ever come to
recovering such a sense of sweetness was secondhand, though it left a powerful impression on me even so. I'm thinking of my son's first
experience of sugar: the icing
on the cake at his first birthday. I have only the testimony of Isaac's face to go by (that, and his fierceness to repeat the experience),
but it
was plain that his
first encounter with sugar had intoxicated him-was in fact an ecstasy, in the literal sense of that word. That is, he was beside himself
with the
pleasure of it, no
longer here with me in space and time in quite the same way he had been just a moment before. Between bites Isaac gazed up at me in
amazement (he
was on my lap, and I
was delivering the ambrosial forkfuls to his gaping mouth) as to exclaim, "Your world contains this? From this day forward I shall
dedicate my
life to it." (Which he
basically has done.) And I remember thinking, this is no minor desire, and then wondered: Could it be that sweetness is the prototype of
all
desire?
Anthropologists have found that cultures vary enormously in their liking for bitter, sour, and salty flavors, but a taste for sweetness
appears
to be universal. This
goes for many animals, too, which shouldn't be surprising, since sugar is the form in which nature stores food energy. As with most
mammals, our
first experience of
sweetness comes with our mother's milk. It could be that we acquire a taste for it at the breast, or we may be born with an instinct for
sweet
things that makes us
desire mother's milk.
Either way, sweetness has proved to be a force in evolution. By encasing their seeds in sugary and nutritious flesh, fruiting plants, such
as the
apple hit on an
ingenious way of exploiting the mammalian sweet tooth: in exchange for fructose, the animals provide the seeds with transportation,
allowing the
plant to expand its
range. As parties to this grand co-evolutionary bargain, animals with the strongest predilection for sweetness and plants offering the
biggest,
sweetest fruits
prospered together and multiplied, evolving into the species we see, and are, today. As a precaution, the plants took certain steps to
protect
their seeds from the
avidity of their partners: they held off on developing sweetness and color until the seeds had matured completely (before then fruits tend
to be
inconspicuously green
and unpalatable), and in some cases (like the apple's), the plants developed poisons in their seeds to ensure that only the sweet flesh is
consumed.
Desire, then, is built into the very nature and purpose of fruit, and so, quite often, is a kind of taboo. The vegetable kingdom's lack of
glamour by comparison
(whoever heard of a forbidden vegetable?) can be laid to the fact that a vegetables reproductive strategy doesn't turn on turning animals
on.
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